Select Committee on European Union Minutes of Evidence


Examination of Witnesses (Questions 180 - 199)

MONDAY 7 MARCH 2007

MR JOSÉ RAMÓN FERNANDEZ

  Q180  Lord Cameron of Dillington: But that is your job, not the Commission's job?

  Mr Fernandez: It is our job but what we need is support from the European Union in order to build up this scheme. We have to know that there is substantial public support for the promotion of wines from third countries to come also to the European Union. We should not prevent ourselves from having this kind of partnership also with public authorities in promoting this access. Of course, a big part of the responsibility lies with the industry and with private initiative but we have also requested the European Commission to provide some support in developing this. Let me give you an example. We are not talking just about putting money into promotion for European wines. We are talking about accompanying negotiations. We need resources from the European Commission in order to be a performer in these negotiations. Today there are some schemes in the European Union. There is a regulation providing support for the promotion of agricultural products in third countries but we would like to see something more consistent and coherent for the interests of the wine sector in international trade.

  Q181  Viscount Ullswater: Do you think that this is something the European Union should be doing? Or should Member States be doing it? What you were describing was the sort of promotion , for instance, that Australia does for Australian wine and New Zealand does for New Zealand wine. Surely the European Union cannot do it for European Union wine. It must be individual Member States that are going to promote French wine or Spanish wine or Italian wine? How do you deal with that?

  Mr Fernandez: The framework for the Member States to provide this support is also subject to European rules because there are public support rules in terms of limiting what you can do as a Member State to provide support to companies, so in any case we are obliged to have some kind of European Union coverage for doing that. Of course, we agree with that but we want to have a global framework which can provide the basis for the sectors to do that with the Member States. Let me also say that, given the experience we have had with the existing European regulations in providing support for the promotion of agricultural products, we have seen many times that the condition of having the public support of the Member States is a brake because it becomes a very bureaucratic system, so we would like to have something more simplified with clear rules that allows the companies to have this support directly and improve access to new markets.

  Q182  Chairman: Can I take you up on external trade before handing over to my colleagues? There are two sorts of questions here. Where is Europe good at exporting to? Which countries do we export to well. And what type of wine is best in terms of export? And then there is the reverse of that almost:—why have some third countries been so successful in penetrating the European market? What is the secret of their success?

  Mr Fernandez: I guess you already have access to these but we are happy to provide to you some official statistics explaining which are the main markets for the export of European wines. If you take out the internal trade between the Member States of the European Union the main market for European wines, the highest value market, is the US. Switzerland is the second one, Canada is the third, then Russia and Japan. They are the top five. What is the wine that we are exporting there? That is something that we can also elaborate on. We have no problem with competitiveness in the high quality products from certain Geographical Indications, which are doing very well in these external markets and year by year are increasing their performance. Where we have rigidities and a lack of competitiveness is in the medium segment, where more and more New World wine-producing countries are developing and coming into this segment. It is not about the low-priced wine segment. It is about something which is very good value for money, where consumers appreciate the quality which is there but not at a high price like having top wines from certain Geographic Indications that we have in Europe. I would say that the challenge we have in terms of competitiveness is that there is expanding consumption of wine at world level but the market share of European wines is not following this increase. There is an increase but is a smaller increase than our friends in third countries are getting. The reasons why our wines in this medium segment are not performing are very much linked with the regulations that we have in terms of restrictions and limitations in communicating with consumers and also the structure of the sector in terms of not having big players which are able to compete internationally as our competitors can.

  Q183  Viscount Brookeborough: Looking at prices generally, first of all are there some producers who are producing wine of such a low quality that (a) they are fully aware of it and (b) they can only do so because of intervention, be it crisis distillation or whatever? Or does it occur because they simply cannot sell it and therefore it goes into crisis distillation? Are they actively producing wine of that quality knowing that it will have to go into intervention?

  Mr Fernandez: We think that market mechanisms like crisis distillation are not allowing producers today to take the right decisions in being competitive. The problem we have today is that, when producers decide to go ahead with their yearly production, they do not necessarily take into account whether that is going to have a proper outlet or not. Of course, this assertion is not valid for the whole production of the European Union but a significant part of the production decisions made do not take into account whether this product is going to be marketable or not, because in the worst situation I would be able to get some money which would allow me at least to cover the cost of production. Even if they intended to produce the wine, the price for crisis distillation in the European regulation is intended to have the effect of dissuading people from producing this wine. However the use of crisis distillation over the last few years has shown that there is a structural production of wine which finally goes to crisis distillation, so we definitely feel that this market mechanism should be reviewed and eliminated and that we should think on alternatives to it in order to avoid the eventual conjunctional crisis that we will have in this particular type of production of wine in the European Union.

  Q184  Viscount Brookeborough: We saw some time ago, when we were looking at soft fruit, that some fruit was produced without using enough fertiliser knowing that it would be for intervention and therefore it was being intentionally grown or produced. Can one say this about the wine?

  Mr Fernandez: I know that in some parts of the fruit and vegetable sector historically there has been this situation. I would not say that there is ad hoc production of wine for going to distillation. I would say that it is more subtle than that, that this mechanism impedes producers from being permeable enough to market demand. Maybe they produce their wines because it is their activity, but if you are not confronted with the reality of the market you cannot just keep doing this. There is something very important to understand here about the wine sector. The harvest can vary very much from one year to another. This is a naturally driven production and it continues to be the case. Wine, fortunately we say, is not an industrial product. We depend very much on natural conditions in terms of the volume and the quality of our production and that is something which also explains why in the current system we have a strong market mechanism, in order to be able to regulate the variability of the harvest that we have from one year to another.

  Q185  Viscount Brookeborough: If there was no crisis distillation and if you removed the planting ban and therefore it was just market-governed, what would you see happening to prices of wine? And how do you think it would initially affect them?

  Mr Fernandez: I think there are segments of crisis. There is huge diversity in wine production in the European Union, and also from a world perspective. In wine there is no one consumer and there is no one wine. You have different segments of products, and I think that this diversity we offer is one of the strengths we have in our sector. I am not just talking about the European Union; I am talking about the world. For some segments and some producers a sharp deregulation of the whole system could lead to some difficulties from a social point of view because it may be that for this segment, if you have no production one year, you have some problems. That is why we are supporting very much the European Commission approach with some criticism of certain points. We support the idea of having as soon as possible quick adaptation to market demand but we need to have some kind of tool in order to prevent crisis while accompanying the restructuring of the sector. I think that, if we do not provide this tool, from a political point of view it will be very complicated to have the in-depth reform we need for sustainable development of the sector. We want to be realistic also from a political point of view in that, if we want to perform in the medium term in a competitive way, we need to go ahead with this reform but also provide some tools to allow the sector to adapt.

  Q186  Lord Cameron of Dillington: On a temporary basis?

  Mr Fernandez: Of course, definitely temporary, and you should not be able to delay the deadline that we put there. That is why it was put in the regulation that the ban on planting rights would stop in 2010. We think it would be a very bad sign to the sector to once again delay the entry into force of this which is already in our regulation. That is a very strong sign to deliver to the sector, that the European Union is serious when drafting the rules, that there are clear signs that some restrictions have to stop at a certain deadline and that we should stick to this deadline.

  Q187  Lord Cameron of Dillington: I want to ask you about labelling. You did mention it before and I think probably you are going to agree with me. First of all, let me say that I agree with you that there are going to be social and economic problems with any wine reform that goes on, and obviously they will need to be considered. But I come from the perspective that the best and most sustainable way of reforming the wine regime is to make it economically sustainable to have liberalisation in the market, to listen to the consumers. We have a lot of different labelling rules in Europe and there are over 10,000 geographical indications, of which probably over 9,000 mean nothing to the consumer. What is to stop us saying, in order to encourage entrepreneurship, that anybody can put whatever they want on a label providing it is accurate and true? That is the only check we need, which after all is what happens in the rest of the food industry. When Robert Mondavi in California first put grape varieties on a label, people thought he was mad but now it is how people recognise wine.

  Mr Fernandez: That is one of the most interesting and challenging parts of this reflection about how things should change in the European Union system. Let me start with some principles. The Common Market Organisation for wine is unique historically because from the very beginning, in order to allow internal market functioning on the basis of fair competition and to protect consumer expectations, they decided to incorporate a comprehensive set of rules about labelling. This principle, we feel, continues to be valid. There has been some very interesting research done by SANCO, the Health and Consumer Protection Directorate General, on food labelling about what are European consumers' expectations in terms of what information they would like to find on their food, et cetera. The outcome of this research is that consumers of wine are interested in the fundamentals of the wine labelling regime, which are roots, specificities, harvest year, varietals, the taste, the combination with gastronomy, if it is OK for fish or if it is OK for beef. This is the kind of information that consumers want. They have said in this SANCO research, "We are not that interested in knowing if it has been made with a clarification agent. We want to know if this product goes with lamb". This aspect of offering diversity for consumer choice continues to be very important. We think that is one of the strengths of the European concept of wine culture. This concept is intended to be reflected in the labelling rules that we have, so we do not want to make a revolution in the labelling rules but there are some things that we definitely want to change, and I come to your point about Geographical Indications. The best part of this approach is that the specific qualities of wine are very much linked to the natural conditions in different parts and the way in which the wine making is done.

  Q188  Lord Cameron of Dillington: In some cases.

  Mr Fernandez: Yes, with this approach. The rules in the European Union for labelling are that the only wines that are able to provide interesting information to the consumer are the wines under the Geographical Indication scheme. You are not able today to provide information on a table wine. You are not allowed to inform the consumer that such a wine is from the 2005 harvest or that that is made with Merlot or provide some kind of explanation about the qualities of the product. With table wine you have to stick to a very non-attractive communication for wine, because the policy of the European Union is to give preference to Geographical Indications. The result of this approach has been that in order to be able to provide appropriate labelling information for the consumer, you have to go under a Geographical Indication scheme. As a result there has been an "inflation" of Geographical Indications in Europe, which leads to a "banalisation" of the concept. That is why the label point is so important. I would say it is not just about the label; it is also about the communication of the whole product. With table wine you have to put "table wine", which is a pejorative message, and the only thing you have there is the brand and whether it is red or white. That is all you can do with this, so you are not really stimulating the possibility of valorising this segment of products, and that is why we say that in the new rules there should be more flexibility for all wines to provide accurate, objective and verifiable information to consumers. There is consumer expectation about the segmentation of the product. We think that in the labelling rules you should keep some kind of segmentation. There are Geographical Indications and non-geographical indications but this category of non-geographical-indication wine should be allowed to communicate in a more flexible way.

  Q189  Lord Cameron of Dillington: Who should control what is put on the label in your view? It seems to me that there is room for the existing sellers to keep out somebody who is being entrepreneurial and innovative by saying, "No, we do not want you to be able to say that. We do not want you, Robert Mondavi, to be able to sell your wine in this way". There is a sort of Mafia element here that could creep in. Who should control it?

  Mr Fernandez: The starting point is that, as with any other food product, when you make a claim on your label you should be able to prove that what you are claiming is true.

  Q190  Lord Cameron of Dillington: So I have misunderstood it? What you are saying is that you should have liberalisation as long as you are saying the truth?

  Mr Fernandez: Exactly.

  Q191  Viscount Ullswater: Do the OIV have rules which would apply to both Europe and the rest of the world that you could go along with?

  Mr Fernandez: They are not necessarily leading a harmonised labelling approach for all wines around the world, but in terms of oenological practice in wine making.

  Q192  Viscount Ullswater: But not labelling?

  Mr Fernandez: They have some projects working on labelling, but what we would like is just to have the possibility to do as other parts of the world do in terms of providing accurate information on what is in the product. Of course, you have to be absolutely frank. It is quite a sensitive issue at the European level because, for instance, the varietals in the European Council are part of the idea of Geographical Indication. That is why there is this resistance to the liberalisation approach, because the Geographical Indication in different Member States means also that you can only use particular varietals. If you allowed the accent in the communication on any wine to be put on such a particular varietal, that would be considered by some to be a dilution of the identity of the Geographical Indication. In fact, that is the reason why in third countries they have taken the varietal as a communication vector of quality and significant wines for the consumer. Because in the US or Australia there was not initially a Geographical Indication reputation approach—they had no Geographical Indications they have taken some words with links to the wine culture—like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, et cetera—and put those on the label stimulating in the consumer perception an interest in these characteristic elements of wines. What we want is not just to prevent our producers from making a profit but also to lead this trend in providing consumers with significant wines that are interesting for them because of the specificity that the varietal, or other specific characteristics can bring.

  Q193  Lord Plumb: You said that reform is essential and yet you accept that there would be a pretty substantial socio-economic problem with the thousands of small businesses there are. Do you do anything as an organisation in encouraging those small businesses to co-operate so that, if they got together, they could then be much more competitive? You are not going to drive them out of business. They are there and they are established, and they will tighten their belts and they will live for a very long time and cause problems. But nevertheless it is going to be, I would submit, a major part of the changes that take place. One of the things that we would like to ask you is on the practices of wine making to permit a narrower range of procedures than those used by non-EU wine producers, and that, of course, could be a hindrance to growth in the market if they are working under different standards and there is a limit to the types of method for producing the wine. Would it be going too far to say that we could be facing a choice therefore between traditional wine growing and producing wine for a competitive market? In that situation, providing the product is safe and everybody is satisfied that what they read on the label, as you have just been saying, is correct, why have those restrictions? Why can we not, as part of the change in the objectives of the future regime, make it the same in a freer sense as the rest of wine making elsewhere?

  Mr Fernandez: First of all, we talk about wine, and wine should preserve authenticity as a product. That is a fundamental starting point for, I would say, the whole wine sector around the world. One of the strengths that we have is to have a very specific product which is natural and with a minimum of human intervention which ameliorates the quality of the product that has been given by nature. This is a very important concept. The European Union has a set of strict rules in wine making because the objective is to keep wine as an authentic agricultural product which is made from the fermentation of grapes, respecting as much as possible the nature of the product. That is why we have in the European Union a positive list of oenological practices which says how to produce a wine and what standards you have to respect in order to ensure that the wine stays an authentic product. With technical development or innovation, of course, there is more you could do with a wine. But if you allowed wine to lose completely its natural characteristics which come from the grapes, you could, from a political point of view and from a perception in society and a consumer point of view, start having a problem in terms of saying what the specificities of this wonderful product are in comparison with others. In the European Union our position for the industry is that we want to keep a set of rules which are quite clear for wine making, but at the same time we can accept that there are other parts of the world where they want to make wines in a more liberal way. We do not prefer this. We consider that this is something that you should be able to valorise vis-a"-vis the consumer, because you preserve a set of rules which fits with the European traditional concept that we have for wine making. Oenological practice for us is not just a matter of safety for the consumer. It is also about preserving the authenticity of the product for consumers as a whole category.

  Q194  Chairman: Is there a real problem here because, when you spoke about import penetration, you identified third party countries taking over the middle range, middle quality wines, not the stuff at the top and not the stuff at the bottom. Is that not really the area where European wines are going to have to compete. And, in order to compete successfully, will they not have to use similar wine-making practices to their competitors?

  Mr Fernandez: Yes, but we do not want that oenological practices should lead the competition in different segments. For the time being we want to refuse to go into the game of competition by diluting the profile of our product. Wine should remain wine; that is the starting point. What we consider very important is to have an international reference for defining these wine-making practices. This for us is OIV, and as proposed by the European Commission, the OIV standards should also become the reference for European wines. But we want to define in the OIV the profile of wine-making that we want. We will also support the proposal from the European Commission. Today the legislative procedure is very heavy and very bureaucratic. To allow any new oenological practices for wine making in Europe you need to go through the Council and the Parliament in order to have this change, which makes it become a real political issue at any time. We support the idea of having a Commission competence. I would very much like to stress that oenological practice is very much about preserving the authenticity and the concept of wine, and I think that there is a common interest in that in the whole world wine community. Of course we have to be open to technical and commercial innovation. We should not prevent ourselves from accepting oenological practices. That goes with this philosophy of ameliorating the natural qualities of the product. But we do not want to be in the position of explaining to consumers that they are drinking something which has lost completely its natural aspect.

  Q195  Lord Cameron of Dillington: But why do you need to have a political filter for the OIV wine-making processes when all the rest of your argument seems to be about being competitive and encouraging entrepreneurship? I would have thought you would want to keep the politics out of wine making and the business of sustaining the wine industry?

  Mr Fernandez: In fact the first political filter is in the OIV. It is not just an expert body.

  Q196  Lord Cameron of Dillington: OIV has consumers, wine makers and wine sellers, whereas the Commission is just politics.

  Mr Fernandez: OIV is an intergovernmental organisation of the Member States of the European Union and the Governments of the other countries (Australia, Chile, et cetera). The sector is not a "member" of OIV. Some sector representatives participate as experts as part of the national delegation but the members are governments, so the OIV is a political body. What we want is to defend our mode of wine in OIV. I think it is the right place; it should be the reference also for all wine producing countries. The United States are not members of OIV today, but we would very much like them to be members; and also the European Union should be directly represented in the OIV . Today it is not the Commission or the European Union which is a member of the OIV; it is the Member States. Once there is a reference and an agreement on oenological practice in OIV,—and once again we want to be able to decide but not in a very heavy and bureaucratic way—we need to simplify the procedure in order to be able to incorporate the decisions of OIV into the European Union rules. But we do not request as a matter of principle, to have for our production a set of rules which are necessarily the same as in Australia, Chile or Argentina. There is also another point which is important . The oenological practices that we can use for European Union wines are the same notwithstanding whether you market your product in the European Union or in third countries. We would like to be able to have some flexibility for oenological practices on the wines which are exported to the third countries. If you go to Japan and they are more open on that it is not a problem for us to fit in with this. Why should we prevent opening the door to these new oenological practices for the third market countries? I understand there is a certain degree of complexity in this approach but the fundamental thing is that we want to preserve the authenticity of our products. And we want to be able to incorporate in the most diligent way in the EU rules the innovation that is decided at the OIV level.

  Q197  Viscount Brookeborough: Can you give us an example of some of the practices, or perhaps some of the additives or whatever, that are added in New World wines which you object to or that you feel damage the principles of wine making? We hear about added sugar but sugar is a natural product. What is it that really goes against your practice?

  Mr Fernandez: There are some oenological practices which are under discussion today also in OIV which are already practised. They are not approved by the OIV but they are practised.

  Q198  Viscount Brookeborough: Can you give us some examples?

  Mr Fernandez: There is, for example, the ion exchanger. Which make wine lose their characteristics. I do not want to be poetic or literary, but wine is a live product. There is a biological process there. If you "kill" the wine from an oenological point of view, it loses its very nature.

  Q199  Chairman: That is like pasteurised and non-pasteurised milk.

  Mr Fernandez: Afterwards you just start with another element and you put that in and you continue to call that wine. I would like to stress that there are some of these practices in place in some of our partner countries in other parts of the world but they are not yet agreed by the OIV. That is why we think that the OIV should be the reference, because it could bring everybody around the table to decide what is the wine making concept that we want to have.


 
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